Liquid Image Scuba Mask
liquid image scuba mask
Have you ever been scuba diving? I want to know what it was like wearing the mask.?
I am a product designer and i would like to find out as much as i can about what your experiences was like wearing a scuba diving mask.
If you have what was it like wearing the mask and what problems did you find with it. Was it comfortable? anything would do i just want to know what it felt like with the mask on.
Also what improvements would you make if you could or what would you like to have on a mask?
Also have you ever used the “Liquid Image Explorer” mask. How was the camera? even getting the pictures off, was it straight forward?
Thanks
I scuba dive and free dive. Free diving is when you hold your breath so you frequently return to the surface from various depths. It is a much more dynamic enviornment than scuba and the mask choice is more critical than for scuba. The skirt should be silicone as it is the most pliable softest and adheres to the skin better than any other material to date. I prefer black because I must relax and don’t want the distraction of seeing something out of the corner of my eye.
The mask must enclose the nose separatly from the eyes so that the nose may be pinched or orherwise sealed closed by the hand for equalization of the ears. I do not like purge valves in the nose to drain the water. They tend to fail after time and cause the mask to leak. Besides, they are totally un-necessary to clear the mask of water, and the water is not a problem until you are looking directly down and it covers the lens which obscures vision.
The mask must be low volume! Free divers don’t have a reserve air source to draw from to equalize the mask. I want to keep the air in my lungs, not in the mask to keep eyes from getting sucked out as the pressure changes.
The strap. This is my biggest problem. If you are not wearing a wetsuit hood, it pulls your hair. Whether or not you use a hood the strap gets twisted, especially if you put it on wearing thick gloves. The strap needs to be placed on the back of the head directly behind the mask for the best seal, but it often moves. The culprit is the snorkel. The snorkel is attached to the strap, so whatever force is applied to the snorkel is transferred to the strap which in turn causes the mask to lose its seal.
The last component is the lens. It must be scratchproof. That plastic box that the mask comes in is good for travel. I have three masks an one case, so just figure that the box will be thrown away. I would rather have a cardboard box, its better for the ocean. Anyway, when I dive for abalone, they go in a float tube. Abalone have a large shell that is abrasive as a rock. When the dive is over, the mask goes in the float with the abalone, abalone iron (prybar), measuring gauge, hard case containing license and tags, fish stringer, anchor etc. The tube goes on the back for the long hike back to the truck, then in the back of the truck bouncing around, sometimes for hours. Let me repeat, the mask must be scratchproof!
Some lenses are tinted. I have one of these. It is red and is supposed to help make things brighter under water. I dont know about that, but I like it at the surface when I’m looking around, it saves my eyes from the bright sun. Polarized is also a good option, not very necessary, but I would buy it. Whatever coating you decide to apply the mask must still be scratchproof, so put it on the inside, or better yet sandwich it between two thin lenses.
The lens must also be shatter proof. I dive a lot in the surf zone where the waves are crashing into the rocks. I know it sound nuts, and it is extreme, but the are fish there, so I will be there. Another reason is that I always exit on the rocks and with tide change and sea state it can be really rough. I have been bashed into the rocks many times. I would hate to have that mask break and get glass in my eyes.
So I dive on the North Coast of California. The coast is rocky, the water is murky, there is a lot of kelp, the ocean is usually rough, and I don’t use air tanks. There are probably more difficult and hazardous places to dive, but there aren’t many people diving there. If you make a mask suitable for freediving the North Coast, it would be good enough for anywhere. I would be willing to test anything you make.
Oh yeah, I have used the mask with the camera in the tropics. The bulk doesn’t bother me under water. What bothered me was the picture and video mode. I kept confusing them. All of the buttons should be far apart so they cant be mistaken, especially if you are wearing thick gloves. I would put led indicators inside the mask for power on and record. Maybe an icon showing the location of the shutter button and on the other side an icor for record or video. I didn’t like that it only took about 20 pictures. You need to be able to take hundreds. Diving for a week on a live aboard or in a foreign country you might not be able to download you pics until you get home. It should have a flash too, but the button needs to be somewhere that you won’t mistake it. I wouldn’t want to flash a barricuda, or shark. A light would be good for looking is holes too. I also didn’t like the clear skirt.
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